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■━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━■ ┃ Multi Lingual Internet Mail Magazine ┃ ★ jp-Swiss-journal ━ Vol. 111 - October 25, 2009 (Swiss Time) ┃ ☆ http://www.swissjapanwatcher.ch/ ■━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━■ 【 目次 / INDEX / INHALTSVERZEICHNIS 】 【J】 日本再発見 明子 ヒューリマン 【E】 Rediscovery of Japan Akiko Huerlimann □━━━━━━━━━━━━━━【 日本語 】━━━━━━━━━━━━━━□ 日本再発見 明子 ヒューリマン 今年も例年通り９月中旬から半月程、主に新潟は妙高高原と阿賀野川、長野は 戸隠、山形は山寺（立石寺）と蔵王、福島は裏磐梯と大内宿を巡った。この時 期日本の稲作地帯は稲穂が黄金色に実る時期だ。スイスの景観で最も美しいの は、手入れの行き届いた牧草地であることは誰もが認めるところだろう。今回 日本の米所と言われる地域を回って改めて、スイスの景観に匹敵する日本の景 観美は稲田、里山に尽きると確信した。見渡す限り地平線まで続く稲田も見事 ながら、山間に点在する田んぼや段々畑、その合間に白い花が盛りの蕎麦畑を ススキの群生が縁取りした畦道に赤蜻蛉を見つければ、日本の秋の景色は完璧 。今回数日間日本の友人が同行したのだが、偶に日本を訪れる在外邦人でなく とも、この黄金色の景観には甚く感嘆していた。紅葉になる少し前の黄金色の 秋の季節は観光客も少なく快適この上ない。 新潟は先ず日本海に近い妙高高原 *1) を目指した。時差ボケ解消を兼ねて小 さな温泉宿にしばらく滞在した。この間例年減農薬のコシヒカリを送って頂い ている近所の篤農家を訪ねた。田んぼや周辺を案内して頂き、ご自宅で郷土料 理のお昼を御馳走になりながら、特別栽培米の米作りについてのお話等を伺っ た。近くに赤倉スキーリゾートがあり、小規模の昔ながらの温泉場が点在して いる土地柄ながら、基本は農業地帯だ。大型のリゾート開発で荒らされる事も 無く、妙高高原スカイケーブルで上った山頂駅からは、遠く野尻湖が浮かんで 見える見渡す限り落ち着いた自然の景観が望まれた。秘境と言われる徳島の山 間部に引けを取らない、実に清々しくも爽やかな景色が損なわれずに在った。 近くにある有名な苗名滝 *2) まで足を延ばしてみた。途中の山道と共に印象 的な美しい瀑布だった。他にも妙高高原周辺には多くの景勝地があるので、再 訪を期したい。 ここから、既に長野県になる野尻湖、黒姫周辺を通って１時間足らずで戸隠に 行ける。ここに日本神話の天岩戸（あまのいわと）を開いた「天手力雄命（あ めのたぢからおのみこと）」を祭ってある創建二千年を超えると言われる戸隠 神社 *3) がある。件の篤農家に勧めて頂いたので行ってみた。２km程の奥社 の参道は緩やかながら上り坂。樹齢４００年を超える見事な杉並木を通り、最 後の急坂を上りつめた果ての奥社に辿り着くと、中規模の登山をした位の達成 感が得られる。荘厳な参道の雰囲気は羽黒山を思わせる。山頂まで続く羽黒山 の急な石段を今でも登れる自信は無い。周辺には広大な戸隠森林植物園 *4)が あって、秋の穏やかな一日楽しい散策が出来る。 次に阿賀野川の村杉温泉へ向かう途中、弥彦神社 *5) を訪ねた。地元では「 おやひこさま」と呼ばれて親しまれている弥彦神社を知らなかった。ここも御 祭神の天香山命（あめのかごやまのみこと）が亡くなって神社が建てられて以 来2,600年になると、かつては社家として平塩姓を継ぐ門前の土産店「ひらし お」*6) の店主に聞いた。手入れの行き届いた広大な境内の見事な苔の庭園に は目を奪われ、ひと時清々しい散策が出来た。神社を参拝した後、鳥居の所で 振り返って深々とお辞儀をする人を戸隠神社とここで見かけた。こういう作法 がある事を知らなかった。奥床しくも敬虔な姿に感じ入り、早速我々も見習っ た。 新発田市にある苔の庭で有名な清水園を訪ねる予定だったのだが、宿の女将の 勧めで豪農の館 *7) を訪れた。伊藤家は江戸中期から明治にかけて財を成し たと伝えられる。越後隋一の豪農に相応しい広大な館だ。開放的な大座敷から 眺める庭園は見事だったが、生憎訪問者が多かったので、じっくり拝見という 訳にはいかなかった。清水園は又の機会に行きたいものだ。次に訪れた山寺 *8) も休日だった為、大勢の観光客でひしめき合っていたので、お目当ての五 大堂でじっくり絶景を堪能、という訳にはいかず残念至極だった。どんなに素 晴らしい所でも混雑していると再訪しようという気にはならないものだ。その 点、翌日に決行したシーズンオフの静けさに満ちた蔵王の熊野岳 *9) トレッ キングでは紅葉が真っ盛り。幸運な事にロープウェーで知り合った登山家に案 内して頂き、霧が出ていたにもかかわらず強風のせいで、お釜が見られて文句 無く素晴らしかった。 この後、福島県の西吾妻山（2,035m）の中腹1,300m付近にあるデコ平湿原 *10) を歩いたが、ここも既に紅葉が進んでいて気持ちの良い散策になった。 天気が良かったせいもあって、中高年の夫婦や女性のグループに出会った。山 間部はどこでも決まって熊には注意が必要と言われた。成田空港の売店でポー タブルラジオを購入して行ったが、説明書を読むのも取り出すのも面倒で、結 局使わずじまいだったが、その代わり山道は幾つもベルを鳴らしながら歩いた 。この後、山の中の御伽の村「大内宿」 *11) に立ち寄った。茅葺屋根の家が 立ち並ぶ山深い小さな宿場は、前回訪れた時と変わらず大勢の観光客で賑わっ ていた。これぞ日本の伝統と言える屋並みと物産の数々は、現代の日本人に大 人気。 日本滞在中に歴史的な政権交代が実現した。新任の前原国土交通大臣は、観光 立国を目指すと就任早々宣言した。日本の風土に合う伝統家屋の建築を政治主 導で振興すれば、日本の景観は間違いなくもっと魅力的なものになるだろうし 、日本人の暮らしそのものも良くなろう。かつて北前船 *12) の往来で栄えた 日本海側から山間部の地域には、未だそのような落ち着いた佇まいと文化の蓄 積が見られたのは、今回の旅の大きな発見であった。耕作放棄地がそれ程見か ける事もなかったのはさすが米所。外国を見聞した日本人が珍しくなくなった 今日、日本を再発見し、日本文化の価値を見直している日本人は少なくない筈 だ。今後の日本の発展が楽しみになってきた。 【参照】 *1) 上信越高原国立公園妙高高原ビジターセンター： http://www.myoko.tv/mvc/ (J) *2) 苗名滝： http://naenataki.myoko.tv/ (J) *3) 戸隠神社： http://www.togakushi-jinja.jp/shrine/zu/index.html (J) *4) 戸隠森林植物園： http://npo-togakushi.org/ (J) *5) 弥彦神社： http://www.e-yahiko.com/kankou/jinjya/jinjya.html (J) *6) ひらしお: http://www.shasaian-hirasio.com/ (J) *7) 豪農の館： http://hoppou-bunka.com/ （J） *8) 山寺： http://www4.dewa.or.jp/yamadera/ (J) *9) 蔵王コマクサ・トレッキングコース： http://蔵王温泉.jp/nature01.htm (J) *10) デコ平： http://www.akabeko.gr.jp/area/deco.html (J) *11) 大内宿： http://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%A4%A7%E5%86%85%E5%AE%BF (J) *12) 北前船： http://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%8C%97%E5%89%8D%E8%88%B9 【 編集後記 】 加えて言えば、レンタカーで回ったこの区間の自動車道は、標識がアルファベ ット併記されていた。又東北では官民挙げて英語のカーナヴィ導入に取組み、 言語切り替え操作を行うと音声案内が英語になり、地図の表記も一部が英語で 表記されるカーナヴィ搭載が進められているそうだ。首都圏以外の日本の道路 の運転は快適と言える。英語のカーナヴィ： http://www.kahoku.co.jp/news/2009/10/20091010t12030.htm (J) □━━━━━━━━━━━━━━【 English 】━━━━━━━━━━━━━□ Rediscovery of Japan Akiko Huerlimann Again this year, we traveled in Japan from middle of September for about half a month around Myoko Highland and Agano River area in Niigata-ken, Togakushi in Nagano-ken, Yamadera (Risshakuji) and Zao in Yamagata-ken, and Urabandai and Oouchi-juku in Fukushima-ken. This time of year in the Japanese rice-producing area, rice ears become gold colored. Everybody would agree that the most beautiful scenery of Switzerland is a well cared pasture. This time we traveled around the so called rice-producing region in Japan; I simply confirmed again that beauty of landscape of Japan with the rice fields and mountain villages, which is comparable to the Swiss landscape. Rice fields as far as the eye can see till the horizon is marvelous; scattered rice paddies or terraced fields in mountain areas and white blooming Soba fields in between, and its furrow trimmed with group of Japanese silver glass where you find red dragonflies, then the autumn view of Japan is perfect. Not only Japanese living abroad who only occasionally visit their home country, but our friend in Japan who joined us this time for a few days was also impressed by the golden view. In golden autumn, just before foliage season, you can see few tourists and it is absolutely comfortable indeed. In Niigata-ken, at first we moved to Myoko Highland *1) near the Japan Sea. We stayed in a small hot-spring inn in order to get over from the jet lag for several days. During these days, we visited a neighboring practical farmer who sends us his rice produced with reduced amount of fertilizer. He showed us his rice fields and the area, and invited us to his house for lunch, serving local dishes and talking about his special rice growing technique. In that area, Akakura ski resort, and here and there traditional small sized hot spring towns are located, but agriculture is the fundamental industry there. Therefore, the area is not spoiled by big resort projects, and we could see as far as one can see a quiet nature view with floating Nojiri-ko (lake) far away from the mountain station of Myoko-kogen sky cable. Perfect breezy refreshing landscape there that is not to be outdone by the mountain area of Tokushima, which is called a rarely visited region. We also visited famous the Naena-taki (fall) *2) near by. The waterfall was quite impressive as well as the mountain trail on the way. There are many other scenic areas around Myoko-kogen. I would certainly like to visit there again. From there, we can reach Togakushi in Nagano-ken in less than one hour through Nojiri-ko and Kurohime area. Togakushi shrine *3) was built more than two thousand years ago for <Ame no Tajikaraou no Mikoto> who opened <Ama no Iwato> as it was described in Japanese mythology. The practical farmer recommended us to visit there. The approach to Okusha is about two kilometers long and a moderate rising slope. When we reached Okusha, climbing up the last part of steep steps after going through a marvelous Japanese cedar avenue, I could feel satisfaction like reaching the top of a middle sized mountain. The solemn atmosphere of the approach reminded me of Haguro-san, but I have no more confidence to climb up steep stone steps up to the top of Haguro-san any more. We can also make a joyful one day walking in a calm autumn day in the huge Togakushi forest park *4) next to the shrine. On the way to the next place of Murasugi-spa around Agano river, we stopped at Yahiko Shrine *5). I didn't know the shrine, which is called <Oyahiko-sama> by local people. I also learned from the souvenir shop owner just in front of the shrine called <Hirashio> *6). Her family is shrine servants for ages and she explained us that the shrine was built two thousand and six hundred years ago, when enshrined <Ame no Kagoyama no Mikoto> died. My eye was grabbed with well cared extensive gardens covered with wonderful moss, and we enjoyed a fresh walking for a while. We saw people who turned around at the shrine gate and deeply bowed after worshiping here and at Togakushi shrine. I didn't know such manner. We found that is modesty and reverent, so we also followed them. Originally I planned to visit Shimizu-en, where moss garden is famous in Shibata-city, but we changed our plan and visited <Ito Mansion (Gohnoh no Yakata) *7) > that was recommended by the Mistress of our Inn. It's said that it belongs to a farmer's family that made their fortune between middle of Edo and Meiji era. The house was huge and gorgeous appropriate for the wealthiest farmer in Echigo (present Niigata-ken). The garden view from the widely opened main drawing room was wonderful, but unfortunately, because of many visitors on that day, we couldn't enjoy there long enough. I wish I can visit Shimizu-en next time. We visited Yamadera (Risshakuji) *8) next. That day was also a week-end and extremely lots of tourists were there. We could also not stay and enjoy the scenery enough at our main target of <Godai-do>. That's was quite regrettable indeed. Even such a wonderful place, if the place is too crowded, we are discouraged to visit again. In case of trekking at Kumano-dake *9) of Zao, there was quiet and covered with autumn color on the following day. Luckily enough that we got to know a mountain climber in the ropeway gondola. Thanks to his guide, despite fogg and strong wind, we could see the beautiful <Okama>, and we were absolutely happy. After that, we went for walking to Dekodaira-muskeg *10) at an altitude 1,300m around middle of Nishiazuma-yama (2,035m) in Fukushima-ken. We could enjoy a nice walk in beautiful autumn colors. Because of fine weather, we saw some middle-aged couples and women groups. We were told to be careful about bears in every mountain area. Actually we had bought a portable radio at Narita Airport, but I was too lazy to read the explanation and to set it up, so we didn't use it at all and rang the bells instead. After that, we visited the fairy-tale village in the deep mountain called <Oouchijuku> *11). Thatched houses lined up both sides of the main street of the inn village; it was busy with many tourists, the same as our last visit. The genuine traditional Japanese houses and local goods are very popular to even modern Japanese people. During our stay, the historical political power change was realized in Japan. The new Maehara Minister of MLIT (Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism) declared to promote Japan as a Tourism-Oriented Country immediately after taking up his duty. If the Government will promote to build traditional houses, which suit Japanese climate, Japanese landscape will be certainly more attractive to tourists and the quality of living for the Japanese people should also be improved. The big discovery of our travel this year was still to be able to see the elegant style of the landscape and the rich cultural reserves from the Japan Sea side till the neighboring mountain area which flourished by the traffic of Kitamaebune *12) in the past. We didn't see yet so many abandoned rice fields thanks to their reputation as rice growing region. Nowadays, Japanese people who traveled abroad are not anymore rare, therefore, people who rediscover Japan and confirm the values of Japanese culture also must not be rare any longer. I'm looking forward to see the future development of Japan from now on. 【 Reference 】 *1) Joshin'etsukogen National Park Myokokogen Visitor Center: http://www.myoko.tv/mvc/ (J) *2) Naena-taki: http://naenataki.myoko.tv/ (J) *3) Togakushi Shrine: http://www.togakushi-jinja.jp/shrine/zu/index.html (J) *4) Togakushi Forest Park: http://npo-togakushi.org/ (J) *5) Yahiko Shrine: http://www.e-yahiko.com/kankou/jinjya/jinjya.html (J) *6) Hirashio: http://www.shasaian-hirasio.com/ (J) *7) Northern Culture Museum: http://hoppou-bunka.com/english/index.html (E) *8) Yamadera: http://www4.dewa.or.jp/yamadera/ (J) *9) Zao Trekking: http://www.zao-spa.or.jp/english/trek.html (E) *10) Dekodaira: http://www.akabeko.gr.jp/area/deco.html (J) *11) Oouchijuku: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C5%8Cuchi-juku (E) *12) Kitamaebune: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kitamaebune (E) 【 Editor's comment 】 Additionally to mention is that the road signs on the motorways where we drove by rental car were accompanied by alphabet. An English car navigation system is promoted in Tohoku by co-operation of public and private sector. If the user switches to the language choice, an English announcement is given and part of the map appears in English. Apart from the metropolis area, basically Japanese motorways are comfortable to drive on. Rent a Car with English Car Navigation： http://www.kahoku.co.jp/news/2009/10/20091010t12030.htm (J) □━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━□ We are intending to offer you current topics, based on Switzerland and Japan with global view as a multi lingual magazine. Irregular release: Weekly Swiss News Headlines will inform Issuing schedule. Please subscribe both mail magazines. 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